Why and How to Remove Your Bike Pedals

Short answer: To remove bike pedals, use a pedal wrench or allen key. The right pedal loosens counterclockwise (standard), while the left pedal loosens clockwise (reverse thread). An easy way to remember: both pedals loosen toward the back of the bike.

Removing bike pedals sounds like it should be simple. It's just two bolts, right? But anyone who's ever wrestled with a stuck pedal knows it can turn into a surprisingly frustrating experience. Once you understand a couple of key things (like why one pedal unscrews backward), the whole process becomes quick and painless.

This guide covers everything you need to know about pedal removal, from when and why you'd need to do it to the tools and tricks that make the job easier.

There are more reasons than you might think. Here are some of the most common situations where you'll need to pull those pedals off.

Pedal bearings wear out over time, and a wobbly or grinding pedal means it's time for a swap. Upgrading from flat pedals to clipless pedals (or the other way around) is another popular reason to remove pedals.

Maybe you've been riding flat pedals and you're ready to make the jump to clipless pedals. Or maybe you're going the other direction and switching back to flats. Either way, the old pedals need to come off first.

Most bike boxes and travel cases require pedals to be removed so everything fits snugly. If you're shipping a used bike to a buyer or packing up for a cycling trip, the pedals need to come off.

Sometimes you need to get the pedals out of the way to work on the crank arm, bottom bracket, or other nearby components.

You don't need a full bike shop to handle this job. Here's what works.

Most pedals can be removed with either a pedal wrench or an Allen wrench, so you only need one of the two.

• A pedal wrench is the go-to for most riders. Its long handle gives you the leverage you need, especially on stubborn pedals.

• If your pedals have a hex socket on the inside of the crank arm, an Allen wrench works just as well and sometimes gives you a better angle.

Pro tip: If you're dealing with really stuck pedals, a wrench or allen key with a long handle gives you extra leverage. You can also slide a piece of pipe over a shorter wrench to extend it.

Here's the thing that trips most people up: your left pedal and right pedal have different thread directions.

The right pedal (drive side of the bike) has standard threads. Turn it counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten.

The left pedal has a reverse thread (also called a left-hand thread). Turn it clockwise to loosen, counterclockwise to tighten. This feels wrong the first time you do it, but there's a good reason for it.

An easy trick to remember: both pedals loosen toward the back of the bike.

As you ride, the rotation of the crank naturally tries to unscrew the pedal. To prevent the left pedal from loosening itself while you ride, manufacturers thread it in the opposite direction. The mechanical force that would loosen a standard thread actually tightens a reverse thread. It's a simple and clever bit of engineering that keeps your pedals from falling off mid-ride.

Now that you know what you're working with, here's how to get those pedals off.

If you have a bike stand, use it. If not, lean the bike against a wall or have someone hold it steady. You want the bike stable so you can put some force into the wrench without the whole thing tipping over.

Rotate the crank arm so it points forward (toward the front wheel) on the right side. This gives you the best angle and optimum leverage.

Place your pedal wrench on the wrench flats of the right pedal spindle (or insert your allen key into the hex socket on the inside of the right crank). Turn counterclockwise to loosen. If it doesn't budge, make sure you're pushing in the correct direction and try a sharp push, which often breaks the initial resistance better than slow, constant force.

Move to the other side. Rotate the left crank arm forward, just like you did on the right side.

Here's where you remember the reverse thread. Place your wrench on the left pedal spindle and turn clockwise to loosen. Yes, clockwise. It feels backward, but that's the correct pedal thread direction for the left side.

Once both pedals are off, take a look at the pedal threads on the crank arm. Clean out any old grease or grime and check for damage or cross-threading. If the threads on the crankarm look worn, a bike shop can chase them with a thread tap to clean things up.

Some pedals just don't want to come off. Here are a few tricks that help.

Use penetrating oil. Spray a bit where the pedal axle meets the crank arm and let it soak for 10 to 15 minutes. This helps break down corrosion and old grease.

Get the right angle. Position the crank and wrench so you can push down with your body weight rather than pulling up. Gravity is your friend.

Tap the wrench. A firm tap on your wrench handle with a rubber mallet can break the seal on a seized pedal without damaging the crank.

Check your direction. Double-check that you're turning the right way. The left-hand thread on the left pedal catches a lot of people, even experienced riders.

The removal process is the same for flat pedals, clipless pedals, and platform pedals alike. The thread and attachment method to the crank are universal. The only variation is whether your specific pedals use wrench flats, a hex socket, or both.

Some high-end pedals, particularly those with carbon fiber or aluminum bodies, may only have a hex socket. In that case, an allen key is your only option. Check your pedals before you start so you have the right tool ready.

When you're ready to put pedals back on (or install new pedals), keep these things in mind:

• Grease the threads. Apply a thin layer of bike-specific grease to the pedal threads before threading them in. This prevents corrosion and makes future removal much easier.

• Use the pedal washer if you have one. If your new pedals came with a pedal washer, place it between the pedal and the crank to protect the crank face.

• Match the pedal to the correct side. Most pedals are marked with an "R" or "L" on the pedal spindle or axle. The right pedal threads in clockwise, and the left pedal threads in counterclockwise.

• Start by hand. Thread the pedal in with your fingers first to make sure the threads catch properly before tightening with a wrench. This helps avoid cross-threading.

• Don't over-tighten. Tighten to roughly 30-35 Nm if you have a torque wrench, or snug them firmly with a pedal wrench. Tight enough that they won't loosen while riding, but not so tight that you'll be cursing yourself the next time pedal removal rolls around.

Now that you've got pedal removal down, you're ready for whatever comes next, whether that's a pedal upgrade, packing for a trip, or prepping for a full bike overhaul.

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